Hamfest Buying Guide: Getting Deals Without Getting Burned

My first hamfest purchase was an Icom IC-735 that "worked great on all bands." Got it home, plugged it in. Dead on 15 and 10 meters. The PA transistors for those bands were blown. Cost me $180 for the radio plus $95 in parts and a weekend of soldering to fix what the seller conveniently forgot to mention.

Lesson learned. Expensively.

Hamfests are still one of the best places to buy gear — I've scored incredible deals over the years — but you need to go in with knowledge and a plan. This guide will help you avoid my mistakes.

Before You Go: Preparation

Know What Things Are Worth

Prices for used ham gear are remarkably consistent. Before the hamfest, check completed sales on eBay (not asking prices — completed sales), QRZ Swapmeet, and the Universal Radio used equipment page. Write down fair prices for items on your want list.

Some current benchmarks as of 2024:

• Icom IC-7300: $850-950 used (mint), $750-850 (good condition)
• Yaesu FT-991A: $900-1000 used (mint)
• Kenwood TS-590SG: $800-950 used
• Elecraft KX3: $700-900 depending on options
• Icom IC-706MkIIG: $400-550 (these have become collectible)
• Yaesu FT-817ND: $400-500 (discontinued, holding value well)
• Baofeng UV-5R: $20-25 new, don't pay more than $15 used

Older classic rigs (Kenwood TS-830S, Drake TR-7, Collins S-Line) have collector value that fluctuates. Research those specifically if interested.

Make a Want List

Go with specific items in mind. Without a list, you'll impulse-buy a boat anchor receiver that weighs 45 pounds and has no use in your station. Ask me how I know.

Prioritize your list: must-have items you'll buy if the price is right, nice-to-have items you'll grab if exceptional deals appear, and a "browse" category for things you'd consider at the right price.

Bring the Right Tools

Pack a small bag with:

• Dummy load (50 ohm, even a small QRP dummy load helps)
• SWR/Power meter if you have a portable one
• Fresh batteries (AA, AAA) for testing handhelds
• Short coax jumper with PL-259 ends
• NanoVNA or antenna analyzer if you have one
• Smartphone with rig manuals/spec sheets downloaded
• Cash in small bills ($1s, $5s, $10s, $20s)
• A wagon or folding cart for hauling purchases

That dummy load is gold. Any seller with a working radio should let you key into a dummy load to verify transmit power.

The easiest way into all of this is a local club; our guide to finding and joining a ham radio club explains how.

At the Hamfest: Testing Used Gear

Transceivers

Here's my testing checklist for any used rig:

Power up:

• Does it turn on? (Sounds obvious, but I've seen sellers claim "just needs new fuse" and the real problem is a dead power supply board)
• Display functional? Check all segments. LCD bleed or missing segments on older rigs means aging display.
• All buttons and knobs work? Spin the VFO. Push every button. Check the encoder feel — scratchy or skippy encoders cost $30-80 to replace.

Receive:

• Tune to a known active frequency (local repeater input, WWV on 10 or 15 MHz if HF)
• Does it receive? How's the sensitivity compared to what you'd expect?
• Any unusual noises, hum, or distortion?
• Check multiple bands. A rig that receives on 20m but is dead on 10m has band-specific issues (often failed relay contacts or filter switching).

Transmit (if seller has power source and dummy load):

• Key into dummy load on each band
• Check power output matches spec (IC-7300 should do 100W, for instance)
• Low power test too — does it reduce smoothly?
• On SSB: speak normally and watch ALC. Excessive ALC with normal mic gain suggests issues.

Physical:

• Check all connectors (antenna port, mic jack, key jack, accessory port)
• Look at the serial number plate — does it match any documentation?
• Inspect inside if possible (look for burns, replaced components, water damage)
• Sniff the vents. Burnt electronics smell is a red flag.

If a seller won't let you power up a rig, walk away. Period. "I don't have a power supply with me" at a hamfest is suspicious. Every second table has a power supply.

Handhelds

• Insert fresh batteries or a known-good battery pack
• Power on, check display
• Transmit into a nearby HT on simplex (bring a friend or your own second radio)
• Check that the rubber duck antenna connector isn't loose or corroded
• Inspect the battery contacts for corrosion
• Try programming a frequency manually. Keypad failures are common on older HTs.

Antennas

This is tricky because you can't easily test an antenna at a hamfest. What you can do:

• Visual inspection: corrosion, bent elements, cracked insulators, UV-damaged plastic parts
• Check all hardware: mounting brackets, boom-to-mast clamps, element-to-boom connections
• Verify all pieces are present (bring the manual on your phone to check parts list)
• For wire antennas: look for green copper oxide (surface tarnish is fine, deep green means thin/brittle wire)
• If you brought a NanoVNA and the seller has the antenna assembled, sweep it

Honestly, I avoid used aluminum yagi antennas unless they're clearly recent and well-maintained. Corroded element joints are expensive headaches. Wire antennas, verticals with replaceable parts, and commercial base antennas are safer bets.

Negotiation Tactics

Timing Matters

Early bird gets the rare stuff. If you want that pristine Collins KWM-2, be there at door opening. Dealers and serious collectors show up first.

But if you want deals? The last hour of the hamfest is when prices drop. Sellers don't want to pack gear back into their cars. I've gotten 30-40% discounts in the final hour on items that had been sitting all day.

Cash Is King

Small bills. No one wants to break a $100 bill for a $35 purchase. Having exact change or close to it also helps in negotiation — "I've got $40 cash right now" is more compelling than a theoretical larger amount.

Bundle Deals

Buying multiple items from one seller? Ask for a package price. "What would you take for the radio, power supply, and mic together?" Sellers love moving multiple items at once.

Be Polite, Be Ready to Walk

The most powerful negotiation tool: willingness to walk away. If a price is too high, thank them and move on. If they call you back with a better number, great. If not, there's usually another one down the row.

Don't lowball insultingly. Offering $50 for a $200 radio isn't negotiation; it's disrespectful. Offering $150 for a $200 radio is reasonable opening position.

Red Flags: When to Walk Away

• "It worked when I took it out of the station" but they can't demonstrate it working now
• Seller gets defensive or evasive about specific questions
• Modified rigs with no documentation of what was changed (especially "MARS modded" rigs where the modification quality is unknown)
• Water damage indicators (white mineral deposits on circuit boards, corroded screws)
• Price seems too good to be true. Stolen equipment does occasionally appear at hamfests.
• No return policy whatsoever. Reputable sellers at minimum offer "DOA" returns within a reasonable period

Big mistake: buying on emotion. That Drake TR-7 looks gorgeous on the table. It evokes nostalgia. But if you don't actually need a 1970s-era HF transceiver with no digital mode support and a known drift issue until it warms up for 30 minutes — don't buy it just because it's pretty.

What to Buy Used (and What to Buy New)

Great Used Purchases

• HF transceivers 5-10 years old: These are solid semiconductor rigs with modern features. The IC-7300 has been out since 2016; used ones are well-proven.
• Antenna tuners: Manual tuners (MFJ-949E, LDG AT-200Pro) are virtually indestructible. They have relays and variable capacitors. Not much to fail.
• Power supplies: Linear power supplies especially. An Astron RS-35M will outlast you. Switching supplies are good used buys too.
• Test equipment: Older oscilloscopes, signal generators, SWR meters. Analog test gear lasts forever.
• Coaxial cable (new surplus): LMR-400 or equivalent in bulk. Check for UV damage on the jacket but surplus cable is often fine.
• Straight keys and paddles: Mechanical devices don't age out. A Bencher BY-1 from 1990 works identically to a new one.

Buy These New

• Coax connectors: Used connectors are suspect. New PL-259s cost $3 each. Don't gamble.
• Feedline for permanent installation: You want full spec, not questionable used coax with unknown history.
• Handhelds under $100 new: The used discount isn't enough to justify unknown battery condition and worn-out rubber seals.
• SDR dongles: RTL-SDR v4 is $35 new. Used ones might have damaged SMA ports or questionable USB connectors.
• Safety equipment: Lightning arrestors, grounding components. Buy new, install properly.

After the Purchase

Once home with your haul:

1. Test everything thoroughly before the return window closes (if one exists)
2. Document serial numbers for your records and insurance
3. Clean equipment with isopropyl alcohol and compressed air (not WD-40 on electronics, please)
4. Update firmware if applicable (the IC-7300 has had several firmware updates since release)
5. Program your call sign into any rigs that store owner callsigns

Major Hamfests Worth Attending

If you're willing to travel:

• Dayton Hamvention (Xenia, OH): The biggest in North America. Third full weekend in May. Over 500 vendor booths plus enormous flea market.
• Orlando HamCation: February. Second largest in the US.
• Shelby Hamfest (North Carolina): September. Major southeast gathering.
• Friedrichshafen (Germany): June. Largest in Europe.

Smaller regional hamfests can be equally good for deals with less competition. Your ARRL division website lists upcoming hamfests by state.

Key Takeaways

• Research fair market prices before you go — know what items are worth
• Bring basic test equipment: dummy load, batteries, coax jumper, and cash in small bills
• Always power up and test a transceiver before buying. No demonstration, no sale.
• Last hour of the hamfest yields the best discounts from sellers who don't want to pack up
• Buy proven transceivers, tuners, and power supplies used. Buy connectors, feedline, and safety gear new.
• Walk away from deals where sellers can't or won't demonstrate functionality
• Have a want list and stick to it — impulse buying at hamfests is a real trap